Sharp Rich North

Chris Ryan: a skeptic vegan antitheist Canadian oenophile geek

Browsing Posts published by Chris

Clear, dark ruby red in the glass. Clean, medium intensity aromas of blackberry and spice. Dry, medium acidity and easy tannins; medium-plus body. Straightforward but appealing slightly sweet blackberry, with hints of black pepper and liquorice. 14.5% alcohol but doesn’t show it as much as might be expected. Overall good.

A gift from my (Aussie) father: $29 at Kits Wine. See Penfolds.

Penfolds Shiraz 2009

Drinking this with Tempeh “Steaks” from Big Vegan.


Clear, pale gold-green-grey appearance. Clean, medium intensity ripe tropical fruits—banana, in particular—and slight vegetal aromas. Dry, high acidity, medium body. Palate is dominated by lemon with the ripe fruits relegated to the background; a slight floral bent as well and a hint of green pepper. Medium length. 14% alcohol. $26.50 at Crosstown; see Ata Rangi.

Ata Rangi 2010 Sauv Blan


Clear, pale-to-medium lemon-gold in the glass. Clean, medium-plus intensity citrus, slight floral, and apricot aromas. Dry, high acidity, again with lemon and stone fruit, along with a bit of fresh green apple and floral notes. Medium length and 13% alcohol. Overall very good; recommended—this is a very appealing nicely balanced Aussie Riesling. $30 at Crosstown. See Skillogalee Wines.

Drinking this with Whole-Grain Mustard and Cornmeal Crusted Seitan, one of my favourites from Vegan Soul Kitchen.

Skillogalee 2009 Riesling


Ruby Blues Riesling 2010

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Clear, pale gold in the glass. Clean, medium intensity apple, stone fruit, and mineral aromas. Off-dry verging on medium sweet; high acidity and medium bodied, with a nicely balanced apricot, citrus, and an appealing minerality. Medium length with a nice lemony-sweet finish. 20% alcohol. Straightforward but enjoyable; overall good, and one of the better Mosel-style Rieslings I’ve had from British Columbia; recommended. $20 at Swirl Wine Store. See Ruby Blues Winery.

Ruby Blues Riesling 2010


Terra Noble Reserva Merlot 2008

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In the glass this is clear, almost-deep ruby with a hint of purple. Nose is a clean, medium intensity black cherry and spice with a background of burnt oak and earthiness. Dry, medium acidity, and more tannins that I might have expected, with a medium body. In the mouth the black fruit again dominates, along with spice and oak; some plum notes, and a bit of heat from the 14.5% alcohol. Medium finish. Not terribly complex, but nicely balanced; an appealing drink, overall good. This was a gift from my father, so I’m not sure of price; around $22 I believe, from Kitsilano Wine Cellar. See Terranoble Wine of Chile, and the winemaker’s technical sheet (PDF).

Terra Noble Reserva Merlot 2008


Clear, pale lemon-gold appearance. Clean, medium intensity nose of grapefruit, ripe bananas and apple, and floral aromas. Dry, high acidity, and medium bodied; the tropical fruits really come out on the palate and there’s a hint of residual sugar along with apple, citrus, and a touch of white pepper. Nice balance, and good length; a bit of bite from the 13.9% alcohol. A very nice drink; recommended.

$30 at Crosstown. See Laughing Stock Vineyards (and winemaker’s notes).

I’m drinking this with Crunchy Protein Salad from Big Vegan.

Laughing Stock Vineyards Blind Trust 2010
(I’m not a photographer and use my iPhone for label pics, but this one is difficult to capture: hard to get focus on the dots in the “LFNG” logo!)

Clear, medium ruby with a slight garnet/tawny rim. Medium intensity nose of cherry and wet earth, oak. Dry, medium acidity, medium body, low tannins. Dull-ish flavours of undistinguished red fruit, with some slight vegetal notes. Short finish. 12.5% alcohol. OK, but quite undistinguished; disappointing. This was a gift from my father, so I don’t know the price. See Maison Roche de Bellene.

Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2008


Clear, pale silver-straw in the glass. Clean, intense tropical fruits on the nose—grapefruit with lime—and a grassiness, almost a dry sage like some of the Okanagan wines have from time to time, along with a hint of the typical NZ green capsicum aroma. Dry, very dry, with high acidity of course, and a medium body. Citrus, citrus, citrus, mostly lemon, on the palate, with more grapefruit, with that hint of the original fruit sugars. Medium length with a finish of more of the same. 13% alcohol. A straightforward wine but I do recommend this one as it delivers the best of this particular ilk at a reasonable price point ($26 at Kitsilano Wine Cellar). See Giesen Wines.

Drinking this with another straightforward staple, Citrus Collards with Raisins Redux from Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine by Bryant Terry.

Giesen Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (The Brothers)


Clear, pale-plus lemon-gold in the glass. Clean, medium intensity floral-perfume aroma with a background of apple and mineral. Dry, high acidity, and light-plus body. The palate doesn’t reflect the nose, and is dominated by sharp minerality and lemon. Medium finish with lingering acidity. 12% alcohol. Straightforward and an enjoyable enough Alsatian Riesling, but a bit one-dimensional for the price—$42 at Crosstown.

Kirchberg de Barr Willm Riesling 2004


The Costco Experience

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I went to Costco the other day with a friend; I’d found myself there previously, once or twice, in similar circumstances. There was something about the place beyond the obvious that had kept me away. The obvious being, first, that it has an almost religious-military bent about requiring “membership,” and one isn’t even allowed to go in to see whether it might be worth signing up, membership carrying a fairly hefty $55 annual fee. Is the freedom to go into a retail store to decide whether you’re going to make a purchase not a basic right of consumption? Although I once got into a bit of an argument with one of the “bouncers” about this illogical policy—don’t, or can’t, they check for membership when and if you actually buy something?—this barrier was circumvented pretty simply, by turning around and entering through the exit, which in size is closer to a delivery bay entrance than a regular set of retail doors.

Another aspect of the lack of appeal for me is the obvious, and arguably crass, mass consumption represented by the place. Even in the middle of the city—there is a Costco nestled underground, or under roads and condos, near the sports palaces in Vancouver—it seems an oasis of suburbia. American suburbia. Everything is oversized; the enormous shopping carts make me feel like I’m a child pushing a regulation-sized cart (children’s carts not having been available as long ago as when I was that young). Often-large people driving large vehicles pile in enormous quantities of stuff that they probably don’t need, or at least I can’t fathom needing myself. It’s one of those places like London Drugs: who actually buys all this stuff, and how did anyone even come up with the idea of producing it? At any rate, being single I can’t imagine ever requiring the quantities offered: even if they do have a good deal on organic quinoa, I’m not sure how to calculate when I might get through four kilograms of it. Not to mention the membership surcharge which, if you’re not spending a lot of your money there, does increase the cost of everything beyond the sticker prices. I guess that’s the point.

But what struck me this time was the apparent mood of the shoppers. I didn’t see anyone who looked like they were interested in what they were doing, let alone happy. There was a universal glumness, a grey lifeless cast to the proceedings. I shop mostly at Whole Foods, and there’s a striking difference. I wonder if this is because Whole Foods shoppers are wealthier, healthier, or—perhaps partly as a result of both—not coming down from a sugar high. I am not sure, but can say that it is an interesting, even engaging place to be: there is such a range of appealing and sometimes even exotic foods there, that cooking becomes an adventure, even—or especially—for a vegan like me. Costco doesn’t even have many of my staples, from tempeh to collard greens; it’s mostly pre-packaged and processed foods. Although Whole Foods is not as expensive as some people claim—Nesters in Gastown is far pricier, for instance—it seems to me that cost is beside the point, to an extent, if you’re not being wasteful and you can shop in an environment that doesn’t feel like a Soviet-era Russian warehouse. But then I’m willing to pay something for experience. I do this with technology and art and music and books, too. Think usability, venue, typography and paper stock; think Munro’s or Elliot Bay versus ChaptersApple Store as compared to, say, NCIX. When you’re buying retail goods, the environment and service are part of the product: it’s called customer experience. Why should shopping feel like you’re procuring for your squad in a big, unhappy army?